Day 28 - The Snares Islands

14 February 2014

The captain had reduced our speed overnight to arrive at the Snares at first light. At 6am I was on deck as we approached the snares in the dark. As it got lighter and lighter masses of thousands of birds were flying everywhere.

Conditions were goods to zodiac so we explored the eastern side of the island (the flat side). It was neat terrain with mainly steep cliffs where buller albatross were nesting and flatter areas where snares crested penguins (and one fiordland crested penguin) were sitting on the rocks.

We explored some large caves and managed to see a snares tomtit and fernbird flying around. We went past the research base where we found lots of hookers sealions and NZ fur seals.

In comparision to the other penguin species we have seen these guys were very small.

I absolutely loved this island and the zodiac cruise was ten times better than expected.

With time ticking until the end of the expedition Greg and I had a look through the engine room. We saw the two main engines (there is always one working but usually two) with heat transfer for hot water, generation to power fridges and air con etc, and sewage treatment (must be drinkable when discharged). The boat carries 15 tonnes of oil and 300 tonnes of diesel. We had a good run on this trip with calm seas only using 120 tonnes of diesel over 4424km travelled, much less than normal although when you think about it this is a huge carbon footprint.

It was great to see Stewart Island late this afternoon and cruise along its southern tip as few New Zealanders get to do this. The size of the island is massive when it takes a few hours to pass. We waited at the northen end of the island on anchor as we dont join the pilot boat at the bluff heads until the early hours of the morning.

We had a sort of presentation with a slideshow of the trip that Scott made and an overview of everything we have achieved this trip. Its great to see everyone in the group all getting along so well with each other, everyone knows everyone and I even finally remember everyones names. There was a big fancy dinner tonight which was a nice way to finish off the trip. even the Russian crew had a few smiles on their faces, a first for many of them, I guess they are glad to be getting rid of us so they can get on with the 26 days solid sailing back home to Russia.

The shape of Broughton Island revealed itself in the twilight then the main island as sooty shearwaters started to take off and leave the island for the morning.

We watched the thousands of sooty shearwaters leave the island

Zodiac Cruise

Nesting Bullers albatross

The first snares crested penguins we saw as we got in close to the rocks (there was also a single fiordland crested penguin)

There were several penguin colonies around the rocks.

Snares crested penguins were quite small penguins with an estimated 23,000 to 26,000 breeding pairs on North East Island and Broughton Island.

New Zealand fur seals

Hookers sealions

Nesting Bullers albatross

The steep cliffs on which the Bullers Albatross nest.

The penguin slope was very cool with hundreds of penguins all the way from the water to the top of the cliff – there was even a penguin highway at the top and an area clear of seaweed where they slide into the water.

The rough steep rouged coastline

Cape petrel

The snares islands disappears behind us as we head for stewart island

White Capped Albatross

Giant Petrel

Bullers Albatross

Cape Petrel gliding alongside the ship

The two engines in the ship went through over 120 tonnes of fuel.