Day 19 - THIS IS ANTARCTICA: Cape Hallett, Possession Islands, snow and snowmen

5 February 2014

After yesterday at sea trying to find somewhere we could land with the weather conditions we had yet another day where we failed to make the scheduled landings. I had crossed my fingers hoping we would be able to stop as I felt like I needed to experience these places to fulfil my goals for this Antarctic trip. I had not realised that the wind and weather conditions would have such an effect on our time down here so I cant help but be left being somewhat disappointed.

Having no control with the outcome of activities going ahead it is really hard to look at all the landing sites on our itinerary and see us pass them by especially when I feel that I would not even think twice about landing as kayak at those same spots. I guess I am not good at failing when I have something set out in my mind and I still think it is achievable. But these guys are the experts having spend years in this region and they know what is safe and what is not for the group of people on board.
I knew in the back of my mind that this trip would have its restrictions, rules and varying weather but the reality has hit hard and not to feel the disappointment is impossible. In the end ‘THIS IS ANTARCTICA’ and anything can happen.

Despite this we made the most of weather conditions and had a fun day.

Because pack ice still blocked the landing to Cape Hallett we instead jumped in the zodiacs and motored along the edge of the ice looking for penguins and the various ice formations. I was in the front and as the waves hit me the water froze instantly on my jacket. After 30 mins of exploring the area the cold was seeping deep into my body and I was glad to get back on the boat. Hot porridge back on the boat was like a dream which warmed me straight back up.

It was a fun morning on our way to the possession islands where we went through our first big snow storm through the day. The deck was covered a few cm high with snow so Coleen, Wieke and I slide across the deck to make a snowman right at the front. It was great being out in the snow and just sitting on the top deck getting snowed on. Travelling with the wind meant it was completely calm and comfortable and I could have spent hours up there.

Going around Cape Adare was awesome with the fresh snow on the hills and surrounding icebergs. With a low out to the east the winds were very strong but with little surge. I am in wait with my fingers crossed that we will land.

The wind dropped below 10 knots but the surge did not so we jumped in the zodiacs for a very different perspective of Adelie penguins in Ridley Bay. There were penguins everywhere from the water right the way up the cliff faces to the top of the mountain 600m ca. High. They reckon there was anywhere from 500,000 to a million penguins in this colony.

The beaches were mainly covered in small bery bits some the size of cars where penguins were swimming around, balancing on top. There was even one area where swarms of penguins were rushing into the water. There were a lot of babies making their first swims who looked so vulnerable who were calling adn surfacing right around the boat, one even jumped into the boat and others kept bouncing off our backs as they also tried. I saw the old historic hut standing in amongst all the penguins.

The numbers of adelie penguins was unbelievable. Everywhere I looked there were penguins just thriving in their environment. In the water, on the icebergs, on the cliff faces, on the flat areas.


CAPE HALLETT

Arriving at Cpae Hallett to find more ice than when we were there last

Fresh snow on deck

Thick pack at Cape Hallett

Very cold early morning zodiac cruise at Cape Hallett

Some Adelie penguins going about their day on some pack ice


SNOW STORM

I spent most of the morning outside in a snow storm. You can see the snow blowing over the iceberg in the distance

Heavy snow falling

I snowed so much this morning that Coleen, Wieke and I slipped and slided along the deck to make a snowman

I played in the snow most of the day

I helped Abdal make his arab snowman

CAPE ADARE

Blue iceberg as we approached Cape Adare

Iceberg Alley

Porpoising penguins as we arrive at Cape Adare

The Cape

Large blue iceberg with adelie penguins

The historic hut at Cape Adare. In January 1895, Norwegian explorers Henrik Bull and Carsten Borchgrevink from the ship Antarctic landed at Cape Adare as the first documented landing on Antarctica, collecting geological specimens. Borchgrevink returned to the cape leading his own expedition in 1899 and erected two huts, the first human structures built in Antarctica. The expedition members overwintered and the survivors were picked up in January 1900.

Evening Zodiac cruise at Cape Adare - masses of penguins getting in and out of the water.

Penguins, penguins everywhere. There were a few dead penguins washed up onshore having probably been crushed between the moving large bergs on the shore.

Penguins from the water to the top of the mountain

I saw the storm petrels hovering around the sheer cliffs which is the site of their nesting grounds.

Penguins amongst the historic hut

Up close to the blue iceberg and we watched the penguins scale the steep berg using the backs of their beaks to get to the top – an isolated emperor was also among the 20 adelies.