Day 15 - Adelie Penguins and leopard seals at Cape Royds, and Cape Bird

1 February 2014

The katabatic winds early this morning died off as we anchored up at Cape Royds. I was so relieved it was all go for the landing as I had really wanted to land here. And what a magic morning we had. With almost no wind it was a lot warmer than previous days (the wind chill makes things much colder) and it was even snowing.

After making a snow penguins with the fresh dusting of snow from early this morning we made our way across an ice field and over the hill to Shackletons hut and a Adelie penguin colony

Watching the penguins was mind blowing. It was fantastic just sitting and tuning into the different behaviours getting an insight into the species. I saw penguins stealing stones from nests, courtship displays, adults making the young ones run after them before they got fed.

Although not as impressive to me as Scotts Hut at Cape Evans this well looked after hut was alive and full of energy and was important part of shaping Antarticas history.

The next stop was Cape Bird where Llyod spent 13 summers studying the 60,000 strong adelie penguin colony (there was also another colony of 3000 bird nearby). We landed onshore to a penguin highway used by hundreds of penguins every hour to walk between colonies.

The colony was covered in penguins with adults along the beach edge and babies in crèches further up the slopes. It was great to sit down and watch all the action of the penguins zipping around everywhere with some coming and going from the sea, babies chasing after mums, some sleeping, some feeding, and some fighting off the skuas which sat in the middle of the penguin highway trying to pick a fight. Someone spotted a skua landing on a chick, holding it down and then ripping it to pieces.

Spending some much time up close with the adelies today I could see the vast personality difference compared to the other penguin species I have encountered. The Adelies were not so curious with us and didn’t approach us but instead just kept going about their business like we weren’t there.

There were these huge ice chunks from the nearby glacier washed up all over the beach which gave the place a really neat feeling.


CAPE ROYDS

Looking across Arrival Bay at the penguin colony at Cape Royds

We had our most exciting landing up the edge of an ice face after washed up ice drifted away with the changing winds.

A lite dusting of snow made the walk over to Shackeltons Hut really spectacular

Track through the snow

Looking across at out landing spot at Backdoor Bay

The Italians wanted to create a base on Cape Royds so New Zealand created an ASPA to protect this historic area and penguin colony.

Only a small colony of penguins but really neat.

A baby Adelie trying to get a feed from its mother

Skuas waiting for an opportunity to eat a chick

Penguin route to the water

Pack ice and small ice bergs floating around at Backdoor Bay

I had a close look at this leopard seal sitting on a piece of pack ice. They are like prehistoric animals from the dinosaur age and he was quite happy just to sit on the ice as my boat circled around.


SHACKELTONS NIMROD HUT, CAPE ROYDS

The main hut was one large room.

Shackeltons Signature

Left over food from 100 years ago when Shackelton lived here

A pile of old storage crates used by Shackelton.

The cute little hut amongst the snow and penguins. Shackelton picked a really nice spot to set up base.

Cape Bird

Arriving at Cape Bird the lower slopes were absolutely covered with penguins.

Penguin highway on the left

This penguin had a big bite out the side of it possible from a failed seal attack (I saw many seals in the water waiting for any penguins that ventured into the water). Brutal nature taking its course.

Adelies doing there thing

Penguin leaving the water

Penguin highway

The glaciers in the distance at Cape Bird where ice has fallen off them and washed ashore. They swim out in numbers to try and avoid the waiting leopard seals

This place was amazing but the coldest I have been in Antarctica so far

Penguins thinging about going for a swim

Mother making the chick chase it to get some food

Hundreds of Penguins all doing different things

Skuas feasting on a dead penguin

The captain set sail this evening for the Ross Ice Shelf to arrive early sometime tomorrow morning. This is us passing by Beaufort Island.

Large snow storm

Heading around Cape Bird with Mount Bird standing 1800m high.